The Internationalisation Of Luxury Fashion

The Internationalisation Of lavishness excogitateChapter 1.1.0 IntroductionPhau and Prendergast (2001) bylined gamy life marker has these characte examines that ar evoke exclusivity, mictu come in a wellspring know shuffle identity, enjoy high brand aw arness and sensed character, and retain sales levels and customer loyalty. For the Chinese sparing, it has been increased at an sightly rate of 13 percent per year (wgsn-edu.com, 2002). In 2004, a score of 236,000 Chinese became millionaires (Merrill Lynch Cap Gemini, 2005). As for highlife consumption, 37% of extravagance goods be purchased in Asia (Chadha and Husband, 2006). In mainland chinaware Chinese sumptuousness consumer universe is 300,000 millionaires. That means Chinese consumers are playing the all-important(prenominal) role for the high life brands as Chinese avocation exit urinate or encounter the sumptuousness reapings pointors potentially (Okonkwo, 2007). Therefore, the customer usually would like to wear contrastive superiors of purchasing contrive increases. fit in to Howard and Herbig (1996) say that People bottom grok value is a major determinant of product success bore images are far more important than product value high prices portray high quality. Bake (2003) indicated that around factors could influence the sell merchant companies debut on the new(prenominal) foodstuffs, for example, legal and language. Therefore, the retailers in order to get to the highest degree profit from products from foreign markets, they leave behind use two ways that are the methods for the follow of first appearance into foreign market and bring in a choice of distribution impart in severally foreign market (Terpastra Sarathy, 1997). In internationalist marketing, the entry method is very important for the bearing retailer to fancy foreign markets.According to the global prodigality consumption, it is indicated the sumptuousness brands are successful ly in the innovation and also in the global sumptuousness market exploitation per year (Verdict, 2009). By using the theory of internationalisation and using the process of internaionalisation example of Burberry. It has strategically penetrated the Chinese market to excavate the Chinese market. The market will return a great verifying impact on the consumption of mien goods and by highlighting their British origins and positioning themselves towards the aspirational consumers.Chapter 2.2.0 Literature ReviewThis literature review aims to tag onress that the mock up of retail internationalisation, its impact upon sumptuosity bearing brands and the strategic military trading operations of British high life brands with Chinese retail market by using the examples of Burberry.Hines and Bruce (2001) noted fashion retailers were the close fecund and successful when it came to foreign market expansion. Unsurprisingly, the rise in academic interest reflects the increase of retail internationalisation activeness as more companies seek to expand their operations overseas (Moore et al 2000).According to black lovage and Akehurst (1995) there are six key undefendable areas for investigateers to thoroughly address all issues concerned with the process when discussing the internationalization of retailersWhat is the internationalisation of fashion retailing?Who are the international fashion retailers?Where do fashion retailers internationalise?Why do fashion retailers internationalise?How do fashion retailers internationalise?When does fashion retailer internationalisation occur?2.1 Definition of the sumptuosity fashion brandKapferer and Bastien verbalize prodigality is in fashion, and the fashion is for luxury.(Kapferer and Bastien, 2009)Luxury brands have the power of branding, which means they can influence cultures, societies and generations potentially. Traditionally, luxury brands have main core characteristics that are brand strength, exclusi vity, creative, innovation, product craftsmanship, distinguishableiation and precision, bountifulness pricing and high quality (Okonkwo 2007). Furthermore, the other core characteristics for the full-strength luxury brand are global reputation, strong brand image, emotional appeal, tightly meshled distribution and visibility (capital of Mississippi and Haid, 2006). For example, Gucci, the results of the strong brand image of Gucci are in several of brands products being back-ordered to two years. The brand value has an important blood with consumers.2.2 Whats internationalisation of retailing?The internationalisation of retailing is delineate Treadgold (Wigley et al, 2005) as having glaring(a) and invisible dimensions. The Invisible dimension has been defined as the international sourcing of products and run and the cross-border transfer of management expertise in the institute of managerial policies or technical skills (Kacker, 1997). That refers to the intangible facet s as opposed to the physicality of opening overseas stores. On the other hand, for the visible dimension, the fashion retailer internationalisation is the operation of retail shops in spite of appearance foreign markets (Hines and Bruce, 2001). Consequently, the luxury fashion brands are visible in the market.From the report of clothing retailing UK (Mintel, 2003), there are 18 out of 20 top-selling clothing retailers have presence outside of home(prenominal) market, for instance, Burberry, it has 236 stores around cosmea (BBC, 2010). At 30 June 2010, Burberry globally had 139 retail stores, cardinal hundred forty concessions (excluding Spain), 44 outlets and 97 franchise stores (Burberryplc, 2010). In chinaware, Burberry has opened stores in 30 cities such(prenominal) as Beijing, Shanghai, and Wuhan (Burberry, 2010). According to Baker (2003, p.799), he indicates that because of the legal, language and logistic conundrums, the most successful retail is difficult to enter othe r markets. purge though the retail companies could be slow and difficult entry the other countries, however overseas expansion is a significant process for teaching of retailers. Liu and Mcgoldrick (Bcaker, 2003) indicated that the long history of international product sourcing has facilitated foreign retailing operations because relationships have already been construct with the foreign destinations that is easier to instigate the process of internationalisation.2.3 Who are the international fashion retailers?According to the British fashion council, the editors of the international fashion magazines, journals and fashion experts, who define characteristic of the international fashion retailers such squares stick an international profile in the fashion industry as evidence in their having bi-annual fashion show in one of the international fashion capitals, e.g. Paris, Milan, LondonHave been established in the fashion design parentage for at least two yearsNamed their own label switchRetail merchandise either via outlets bearing the name of designer or within other outlets with two or more countries(Moore et al, 2000)From other translation, chase Hines and Bruce (2007) the international fashion retailer can be defined into the foursome typesThe product specialist fashion retailers narrow product range, clearly defined customer baseThe fashion designer retailers internationally recognized brand, grievous bodily harm positioningThe general merchandise retailers mix of fashion and non-fashion products and great(p) storesThe general fashion retailers- broad range of products and accessible pricing(Hines and Bruce, 2007)Moore and Doherty (2007) defined luxury fashion retailers as those firms that distribute clothing, accessories and other lifestyle products which are simply designed and/or manufactured by/or for the retailer merely branded with a recognised insignia, design handwriting or some other identifying devicePerceived to be of a superior desi gn, quality and craftsmanshipPriced significantly higher than the market norm andSold within prestigious retail settings.Retailer that con solve to this characterizes include Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Hermes, Burberry, Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Versace and Mulberry.2.4 Chinese retail cultures and economyFor this stage, it will indicate the Chinese luxury fashion history, retailers and exportation in the world. By examining Chinese economy in the luxury fashion, chinaware is playing an important role in the world of luxury fashion.Chinese have great history, but to date most of people have not exhume it or they reclaimed it by their own understanding. at once chinaware has recovered its culture and confidence in itself, there is no uncertainty factor that great Chinese luxury brands will appear, recreating the attach with the past such as shanghai Tan (Chadha and Husbands, 2006)$1.4 trillion economy of chinaware is the sixth largest in the world and gross domestic product is fo recast to increase 7.9% over the next five years (wgsn-edu.com, 2004). Since the 80s, Chinese economy has increased at an average rate of approx 13per cent per year. In some coastal cities growth has been as high as 35%. (Wgsn-edu.com, 2002. Sep 04).World trade in clothing and frameworks is about $350 billion. In China, employment move into range from an estimated 19 million employed textile and Clothing manufacture in 2005 up from 14 million in 1995 to 17963 in Mauritius. That is from the table, it also indicates employment in clothing manufacture in some countries from 1995 to 2005 (see figure 1) (Hines and Bruce, 2007). There is a reason for it that the Chinese textile and retail industries have cheap labour. On the other hand, China and Hong Kong China are the leading exporters which are significantly higher than others (see figure 2) (WTO, 2005) However, China and Hong Kong China are being relatively smaller importers in the table. twenty years ago, there was no middle class in China but now, the middle class has been more than 100 million. Currently, China represents 12% of global luxury goods purchases and will grow 26 per cent per fourth part for the next four years. The current of Chinese luxury consumer population is 300,000. The subject of people who can afford the luxury products will grow up 1.3 billion in the next five years. That means the Chinese consumer is important for luxury brands as Chinese market will have make or break the luxury products factors potentially (Okonkwo, 2007). The high growth rate of the Chinese economy is an amazing market for the luxury fashion products industry. Chinese luxury market is the second largest to Japanese in the Asia-Pacific region and will grow 28 per cent annually in 2010 (Wiederhecker, 2007). Furthermore China will probable play influence role in the world of fashion. The effective of the rising Chinese designers will be increased in the next decades (Okonkwo, 2007).2.5 Market entry StrategiesFashi on retailers as the most prolific of international retailers can be are consistently recognised (Wigley and Moore, 2007). Luxury fashion brands have attracted more consistent attention and form the home of the current work while the general fashion brands have been the localize of some academic attention (Laulajainen, 1992 Fernie et al., 1997 Moore et al., 2000 Moore et al., 2004). From Root (1987) summaries the definition of entry methods is as institutional arrangement that makes possible the entry of a companys product, technology, human skills, management or other resources into a foreign country. Traditionally, entry methods can be classified into along risk or control continuum (Teradgold and Davies, 1998 Dawson, 1994 Dotherty, 200). According to Alexander and Doherty (2009), international retailers will use more than one method to unwrap their markets when they face a add of methods for international expansion. There are main methods for international retailing developing their marketsFlagship stores company owned, large in home plate to show case the brandOrganic growth internal expansion, likely new store develops within the existing or an integrated validation frameworkMerger and acquisition the acquisition of control over a firm in the international marketJoint venture amongst a company in the host country and an international firm or two firms enter into a joint venture and enter the host marketFranchising and licensing a business gives the authorities to the international franchisee to melt down the brand. Licensing, such like a agentExporting/ wholesaling products sold to an international market without really storesConcessions a shop within a shop, usually a division store, in the host marketWithin each of these methods has advantages and disadvantages, which is chosen by a retailer on basis of its product portfolio, corporate confidence and has consequent set up cost and in operation(p) control, which a retailer needs to take into con sideration (Burt, 1993 Dawson, 1993 Moore and Fernie, 2004 Quinn and Doherty, 2000 Sparks, 1996 Treadgold, 1991 Treadgold and Davies, 1988). Burt (1993). Following Simpson and Thorpes (1996) PLIN model the companies successful in foreign markets because their heritage provides them with niche differentials and internationally openhearted brands as highlighted. This model suggests that retailers should do differential advantages via product, lifestyle, image and niche differentials from their competitors.The factors of internationalization entry methodsGoodhow and Hanz (1972) indicate that companies need to consider five factors to start formulation for foreign market entryThe environment of market- policy decision is stirred by the environment of political and economic factors of the foreign marketThe scrap of the company- affected by the eggshell of company, technological level and experience of internationalisationThe characteristic of the product- influenced through specialt y of the return or different of production life cycleThe consideration of companys capital and budget- it is affected by the terminal point of companys capital.The cognition of inner company- the decision maker of company has the opinion towards the scale of risk for the requires of expansion foreign marketThe luxury fashion company, Burberry, says it is sacking to buy out its franchisees in Mainland China at beginning of folk (Independent, 2010). Burberry will pay 70 million ($108 million) to take full control of 50 stores in 30 cities in China, which include 9 stores in Beijing and 4 stores in Shanghai, from its franchisee Kwok pay heed Holings of Hong Kong (BBC, 2010). The reason for Burberry to buy out its local franchise partner is that it will give more Burberry company control over the merchandise and how it is marketed. The chief financial office of Burberry utter We believe we can give more productivity with those stores. and Burberry was looking to prototype the number of shops in the country. She also said the country would be a double-digit growth driver(Independent, 2010). Furthermore, for the development of retailer expansion in the foreign country, dweeb analyses can provide they with an outline of their strengths, Weakness, opportunities and threats, which can assist in counselling when they entry into international markets (See figure 3).Burberry operates flagships in four markets that are London, freshly York, Tokyo and Barcelona (Moore and Doherty, 2007). Therefore Burberry did not use the flagships store method entry into China. However, for the one of the entry methods, concessions, nowadays, Luxury players have held out longest in Europe a fetchst locating in malls, which has been anathema to the retailers. However this has been preferred roadway to market in regions, such as China in Asia (Verdict, 2009). alike in Beijing both(prenominal) Shingkong Place and ST Plaza big department malls anchoring many luxury brands. Burb erry operates concessions within these department stores throughout China.However, Burberry will operate the flagship store in Beijing in 16th December. That flagship store will be the most great in Asia (ELLEChina, 2010).2.6 International expansion stressSome studies examined that the direction of expansion of specific fashion retailers is largely mulish by their market position (Hind and Bruce). According to Hollander (1970) found that a concentrate on on capital city expansion was a common trait of the internationalising luxury fashion retailers and termed the strategy the New York, London, Paris syndrome. In the 1990s, as a consequence of the hardly competitive conditions within the European sodality and as a result of the opportunities afforded by the demise of the USSR. Therefore Fashion retailers have focussed on their international expansion to emerging markets includes China, Russia (Fernie et al., 1998)The line of distribution refers to the areas that are make produ cts and services available to customers. Retail channels are most effective when they meet the consumers anticipateations in terms of mess, thingamajig and product assortment (Okonkwo, 2007). For luxury brands, there is the additional task of brand protection in the distribution areas choice such as licences or franchises. However, as early mention in foregoing chapter, in China, luxury retailers entry the market for the place of distribution via another choice.For an instant, The British luxury brand, Burberry, has 47 stores in Mainland China. In Beijing, Burberry operates eight stores.Chapter 3.3.0 Luxury brands in the world3.1 Global luxury consumptionDuring the last few years, the luxury market has sustained growth. The luxury market has grown from $20 billion to $68billion from 1985 to 2000 in spite of the September 11 attacks and other events disruptive to global trade (The Economist, 2002). Even though some factors can influence the consumption of luxury brand in the mark et, which include image, quality, store atmosphere (Deeter-Dchmelz et al, 2000). However, Global consumers slip by on luxury brands still grow 102.5% over 2003 to 2008 in $. In the euros, the global luxury market grew by 41.8% to 224.5bn over the 2003 to 2008, with a growth slowdown get evident in the latter half of 2008 because consumers outgo on luxury brands slowed under the impact of the global financial crisis (see figure 4) Furthermore, the luxury goods sector has become increasingly more internationalised in recent year (see figure 5) (Verdict, 2009).3.2 Burberry in ChinaThomas Burberry created Burberry in 1856 in Basingstoke, England when he opened a store to sell mens outwear, soon becoming known for the development of a fabric called gabardine. During the First World War, Burberry move to develop the officers raincoat named the Trench coat(Moore Britwistle, 2004). Burberry is a global luxury brand with a distinctive British heritage, core outerwear base and one of th e most recognized icons in the world. In China, after Burberry bought its franchisee back from Kwok Hang Holdings of Hong Kong (BBC, 2010). According to Burberry assemblage PLC (2010) Burberry plans to open about 10 stores in China in the current financial year when applying global marketing, retail, merchandising and IT disciplines to drive store productivity. From Angela Ahrendts, Chief Executive Officer commented The acquisition of Burberrys store operations in mainland China will allow us to further supplement our proven brand and business strategies in this high growth luxury region. With a solid foundation of 50 stores across 30 cities, useable expertise and strong brand momentum, this is an optimal time for Burberry to integrate this business.Chinese market is an exciting market for the British luxury brand, Burberry. Furthermore, Burberry also plans to add 66 stores and 44 Chinese outlets in China by 2012 (Independent, 2010). In the other hand, According to Burberry annua l report (2009) the revenues of Burberry were up 30% in Asia-Pacific and in 2009 to 2010, the retail and sweeping revenue were 24% in Asia-pacific includes China. (see consider 6)Chapter 4.4.0 Methodology4.1 IntroductionThis chapter will definite the relevant methods of interrogation that paying back to give the most accurate findings for the aim and objectives of the intention that have already been discussed. A vary of research methods will be examined at individually. later on identify all the methods a few approaches will be selected for examining the retail internationalisation of British luxury fashion brands into Chinese market.4.2 Research approachesAccording to Proctor (2000) indicated Qualitative research examines the attitudes, feelings and motivations of products users. Qualitative research is characterised by small samples and this has always focus on criticism. Qualitative research has advantages to grow in popularity. Firstly, it is very much cheaper than quanti ties research. Secondly, an understanding of customer attitudes and motivations is produced a good mechanism by Qualitative research. Thirdly, it can improve quantitative research expeditiously. Otherwise, qualitative research cannot provide samples for representative of the target population of the research.Quantitative research is foc apply with measuring elements of a market or the population of consumers marking up the market. This contains soft phenomena such as consumer attitude as well as market size, brand shares and purchase frequencies etc (Hague and Jackson, 1999). Quantitative research is a large sample size and it use statistical to analysis (Proctor, 2000).4.3 SamplingThe definition of take is from Chisnall (2001), it is concerned with the study of the relationships exiting between a population and the samples force from it. Proctor (2000) indicated sampling, some so-called census training is in fact obtained via sampling. That means computer assisted statistical pr ocedures make it possible to obtain useful information about the population through questioning provided a selected sample of persons.There are two main types of sampling methods according to Chisnall (2001)Probability samples- it is different between the sample value and the true value of the population surveyed.Non-probability samples- it require certain percentages of the sample to be women or men, housewives under thirty or a similar criterion.4.4 SurveyThe first entropy is indicated that asking people questions about their knowledge, attitudes, preferences and buying behavior (Kotler et al 2002).According to Proctor (2000) explored some of the various method of primary data through surveysPostal surveysPersonal interviewsTelephone surveysCompletely self-administered surveysPanelsOmnibus studies4.5 QuestionnairesA Questionnaire is an important stage of the total research methods and its preparation and administration demand considerable professional expertise. It obtains spe cific information about a defined problem so that data result in a let on appreciation of the problem after analysis and interpretation Chisnall (2001).According to Hague and Jackson (1999) noted purposes for the questionnaires. Firstly, primary role is to draw accurate date form respondents. Secondly, they provide structure to interviews. Thirdly, a questionnaire is to provide a standard form on which facts, comments and attitudes can be written down. Finally, questionnaire facilitates data processing.Question can be classified into two types that are open-ended question and unlikable questions. Open-ended question is also known as free response or free response. The respondent is considerable freedom in give voice an answer, which may be lengthy and detailed, and in his or her own words. On the other hand, closed questions are identified as calling for responses, which are strictly contain. That means he or she can choose pick replies from they are expected to select an answ er corresponding their on a particular subject (Hague and Jackson, 1999). Survey questionnaires are applied in different ways such as telephone interviews, formal structured person-to-person interviews and self-administered studies (Proctor, 2000).4.5 ObservationAccording to Proctor (2000) indicated observation is a drawback of the survey method. It obtains much of the information is based on interviewees statements describing what they have make or expect to do in the future. Observation includes the personal or mechanical observe of selected activities. Chisnall (2001) said observation may be either participative or non-participative as indicated in the receding section. Participative observation would seem to have very limited application in marketing research. On the other hand, non-participative widely employ in scientific studies and termed the classical method of investigation has several applications in marketing research. Hague and Jackson (1999) noted that observation is used in obtain studies, especially in stores. It is used to find out how things are done in practice.Observation can classified into these stages for the in-store environmentDistributionledge priceShelf facings -reported in number and shareShelf locationDisplay activityPresence of point-of-purchase material(Proctor, 2000)4.6 Focus companyA focus root is a common form of a group interview. The aim of focus group is to learn and understand what people have to say about a topic and understand their arguments. The purpose is to watch how it forms part of their lives and how they feel about products, idea or organization.Focus group can be classified into three types that are exploratory groups, clinical focus group and employing focus group. Exploratory groups method is often used by focus group and helping to define the problem precisely. clinical focus groups are used as true motivations and feelings of a person are subconscious. Employing focus groups provide information and d ata about problem by the mechanism of group dynamics. (Proctor, 2000)4.7 InterviewsAccording to Chisnall (2001) defined as a conversation directed to a definite purpose other than delight in the conversation itself. An interview concerned with a purposeful swap of meanings and interaction between the interviewer and the respondent. The quality of the interview depends on the interviewer developing a relationship with the answers, which will encourage good communication.5.0 ConclusionTungate (2008) indicated luxury brands have identified opportunities in Asia as a whole, everyone wants to talk about China. And also, Dickson Poon, the Hong Kong enterpriser who owns Harvey Nichols, said China definitely has the potential to become the largest luxury goods market in the world. Poon says that a number of Chinese with the wherewithal to buy mid-price consumer goods has reached 300 million. The Chinese is already worth an estimated US$550 billion. The people frequently travel for shop n ot only to Hong Kong, they will go to further afield such as Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, as there place is a new wealth. Therefore, British luxury brand, Burberry successful entry into Chinese market. According to the data and information as mentioned in previous sectors indicated Burberry is good example of British luxury brand in Chinese market even though Burberry worn-out(a) 70 million ($108 million) to take full control of 50 stores in 30 cities in China. Like Angela Ahrendts, Chief Executive Officer said Chinese market is an exciting market for the British luxury brand.(Burberry Group PLC 2010) So, Burberry is developing in Chinese market constantly, and they will open the most largest flagships store in Beijing soon as mentioned in previous sector.The aim of this project is to understand the retail internationalisation of British luxury fashion brands into the Chinese market. Therefore, objectives will be achieved by using both primary and secondary research methods to exam ined the retail internationalisation of British luxury fashion brands into the Chinese market. The literature review includes extensive secondary research from published authors of books, journal articles etc. to provide an examination of theoretical work. However, this project would benefit from the following methods of research have been selected as the best approaches to gain the most accurate findings.Index.Figure 1.Source from Bruce M. and Hines, Fashion Marketing modern-day issues, pp. 3Figure 2.Source from Bruce M. and Hines, Fashion Marketing contemporary issues, pp. 5StrengthsGross margin increased from 52.1% in 2008/09 to 59.7% in 2009/10yearly sales of 1280mRetail revenue is 749mAuthentic British heritageIts mental institution in 1856 by Thomas BurberryGlobally recognized icon portfolio e.g. intrench coat, trademark checkTop 100 global brandsWeaknessesProfit swing from 62m to 25m in1998The foreign group out of controlOver-reliance on a number of key product suppliersB urberry over-relies upon licenseesOpportunitiesEnhance consumer responsivenessOperate more efficiently and effectivelyUpgrading existing storesExecution of the global buyThreatsCompetition from other luxury global brands such as Chanel, GucciBurberry could suffer it is supply fibril is unable to produceBurberry may be unable to control its wholesale and licenseesFigure 3 Burberry SWOT analysesFigure 4.Source from Verdict (2009), Global luxury retailing, pp.23Figure 5Source from Verdict (2009), Global luxury retailing, pp.24